When I turned 39, my face got weird. Not weird, like an extra nose. No, that would have been helpful. It got weird because it started to slide towards my very shallow neck. There was simply not enough room for both my stacked necklaces of one and my newly falling jawline.
As every person older than us has always said, you can still feel young and vibrant inside your brain, but the rest of you does not maintain that optimism.
So I went on the hunt for answers. I talked to dermatologists, estheticians, people with pretty skin in line at the Piggly Wiggly, and of course, the internet. When I say internet, I mean all the best and worst places: Reddit, YouTube, and medical journals.
I slowly started to learn about depleting collagen and elastin and the thinning of the epidermis and subcutaneous layer. I learned how the sun is gorgeous in a photo at the beach, but she’s a real b-word to your skin. Photoaging (damage caused by exposure to sunlight and ultraviolet light) is responsible for 80-90% of visible changes to the skin. And it’s cumulative. Every sunburn and tanning session is mapped on our faces.
Sidebar: This is not a place on the internet where we think sunscreen is decorative or unnecessary. Please see the cast of The Hills if that’s more your vibe.
This growing adjunct education helped me see beyond cleansers and moisturizers to the science of it all. I slowly started to understand the purpose and value of acids, vitamin C, niacinamide, peptides, and retinoids. I built a skincare routine around this knowledge and my skin radically improved.
I won’t form skincare as a weapon against you.
Let’s take a brief look at my not-brief 10-step routine. These are not 10-steps every day and the steps are different in the AM vs the PM. This routine is not prescriptive. WE ARE JUST SHARING AND LEARNING AND GROWING.
This is for the high energy folks. (although this routine does not take a long time)
First Cleanse: (PM) An oil-based cleanser for makeup and SPF removal. These balms or actual oils will melt it all into a glorious puddle.
Second Cleanse (PM): Water, milk, or gel-based cleanser for any leftover mascara or pollution or sadness left on your face.
LED Mask: 2-3x a week. Red light therapy has been shown in scientific studies to help with all types of issues that may ail you - including an aging face.
Exfoliate: 2-3x a week, a chemical (Alpha Hydroxy Acid or Beta Hydroxy Acid) or physical exfoliant will unclog pores and rid yourself of dead gross skin.
Essence: A lightweight or milky lotion that targets dryness, redness, or any other annoying traits of your face.
Eye Treatment: Use a targeted cream for depuffing or lines. Hint: you can also skip this and just use your regular moisturizer here, but be gentle...because eyes.
Serums: These are your weapons for battling fine lines, hyperpigmentation, texture, and the most delightful sagging. Apply thinnest to thickest.
Sheet Mask: 1-3x a week for that spa feeling.
Moisturize: This seals in all the previous skincare. Hydration creates toddler skin without the dried ketchup stains.
SPF (AM): As I mentioned, the sun causes 80-90% of aging on your face. Also, skin cancer is the most common cancer in the US and world. Fight back like a ninja.
These steps have served me well for almost a decade. Some create instant results and some take months to see the impact. It’s all worth it to me.
On the left is me at age 38 in May, 2014. I was not using sunscreen or any products other than a cleanser. On the right is me at age 48 in June, 2024. No makeup, no filter.
No matter the value I found in all these steps, I know this list may be too much for someone who has been washing their face with antibacterial hand soap.
Sidebar: I want my legacy to be getting you to stop using SoftSoap as a face cleanser.
Minimalist SoftSoap-Free Skincare Routine
Cleanse (water rinse a clean face in the AM, double cleanse in the PM)
Moisturizer
SPF (AM)
If you have a little more energy, include a serum step. Might I suggest vitamin C in the AM and retinol in the PM? If you don’t want to add a serum step, consider finding a moisturizer that includes active ingredients in its formula. For example, CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream has peptides and niacinamide built in. Or ROC Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream includes retinol in the formula.
Is it the end of the world if you go to bed without washing your face? Of course not. But if you can find 5 minutes, washing your face and throwing on a moisturizer could make a visible difference in your skin in less than a month.
Pro Tip: Do your nighttime skincare as soon as you get home from work or right after dinner. Don’t wait until you’re drooling into the couch missing the end of The Bear, Season 3. After the sun, being sleepy is the #2 thing messing with your face.
I created an 8-page PDF that includes a detailed, graphic guide for this process, an AM/PM cheat sheet, a minimalist routine, and products I have used up and loved for each and every step. It’s a super casual list of 145 products I’ve tried and tested and found faithful divided by $ and $$. It also includes a glossary on skincare steps and how they can best serve you.
Subscribers to {Adult} Highlights receive the PDF in their welcome email when they subscribe. So…subscribe, pretty please.
What questions do you have about all of this? I will answer or point you to an answer.
Links to 100+ products I have purchased, tested, and loved for each step can all be found on my virtual storefront divided into “kinder on your wallet” and “tougher on your wallet.”
Note: I pay cash money for products I use and my opinions about them are my own, but I do earn commissions if you purchase from affiliate links. This never affects the price you pay.
Essence vs. toner
What’s the difference? I’ve used toners but never essence like you had in your pdf sheet! Is one better than the other? Ty! Also any recs for hormonal breakouts would be highly appreciated
Please pretty please is there a red light mask out there for us tight budget girls? Dr. Dennis Gross is a pipe dream for me…